If you are heading to Europe soon and want to step outside the comfort zone of the tourist-acclimated Western countries, give the now-separated nations of the former Yugoslavia a try.
This beautiful region is once again becoming safe to travel in, so head there now while prices are cheap, accommodations are plentiful and before the whole place gets overrun by tourists.
Ljubljana
The capital city of Slovenia is a good place to start your Eastern adventures. Since the airport outside of Ljubljana is small and travel taxes in Slovenia are high, the cheapest way to access the city is to fly into a more well-known international hub, such as Venice or Salzburg, and take the train into Zelezniska Postaja, the Ljubljana train station.
Plan on spending at least two nights in the city. For an upscale hotel experience, go to the Grand Hotel Union, a high rise right in the middle of downtown. Or, for a funky hostel, try Hostel Celica (rated “hippest hostel” by Lonely Planet and receives great reviews by travelers), which is a converted military prison and about a 20-minute walk from the downtown center.
You can spend one day wandering Old Town and the Ljubljana castle and grab a bite to eat or a kava (coffee) at one of the cafes overlooking the picturesque Ljubljanica River. You can also stroll through the riverside market, teeming with local produce, handcrafts and Slovenian honey, a regional specialty.
Check out the Dragon Bridge (one of Ljubljana’s most iconic attractions) and the Triple Bridge, both designed by famed local architect Jose Plencik. Wander through Tivoli Park just west of the city center and don’t miss Preseren Square, with its statue of the great Slovenian poet France Preseren, whose works include the Slovenian National Anthem.
For dinner, if you want to experience the Slovenian take on pizza (served with a dollop of sour cream) try Pizzeria Foculus. They have a huge menu, decent prices and a good salad bar. For a cheap and easy meal look for a burek stand, a Baltic snack of phyllo dough stuffed with meat, apples, veggies or cheese. If you want to hit the nightclubs, give Sky Bar a try. An elevator will take you to a top-level lounge with a great view of town.
If you have another day to spend in the city make sure to check out the Jose Plecnik Museum House, open Tuesdays, Thursdays and weekends. If you are in the mood to get out of town and see the countryside there are some great side trip options from centrally located Ljubljana. Check out the Karst region to the south of town for some of the world most impressive caves or head north for a drive through the Julian Alps or an afternoon in picturesque Lake Bled.
Dubrovnik
Welcome to Croatia! Spend at least three days here, not including a full day of travel to reach the city from Ljubljana. The best way to get from Ljubljana to Dubrovnik, this Dalmatian coast darling of a city, is to take a train from Ljubljana to the Croatian port town of Split and board the Jadrolinija ferry, which will take you on an overnight Adriatic cruise to reach your destination in style. After stops at several islands the boat will get you into the ports of Dubrovnik in the afternoon. Be prepared for hoards of locals advertising sobe accommodations as you descend from the ferry. Sobe means “room” in Croatian and these accomodations are the best deal in town.
Locals will rent out anywhere from two to five or six rooms in their private homes to make a bit of extra income. Usually sheets and towels are provided and while meals are not, it’s a good idea to ask what specifics your host is willing to make available. I stayed with Paulina Cumbelic at Old Tabakarije . She rents out four double rooms and provides good, friendly service in a great location right outside of Old Town and very close to two good beaches. Once you have arrived at your sobe or hotel and have become oriented, drop your bags and check out the Old Town.
Walk down the main street, called the Stradun Promenade and hang a right on M. Pracata to catch a sunset cocktail at Buzza, a unique bar that clings to the outer wall of the Old Town. The view is breathtaking and the priceless scenery justifies the $8 glass of wine. Yes, that is very expensive for Croatia! Once your cocktail is done walk back across the Stradum to Prijeko Street, also known as Restaurant Row, to find a slightly tourist-infused but still a very good sit-down meal. Or grab a more casual bite at one of the many pizzerias off the Stradum in the other direction.
After dinner have a drink at the Hard Jazz Cafe Troubadour and take in some great live music while you relax in their comfortable outdoor lounge chairs. Wake up early the next day to get a head start on sight seeing in this culturally rich town. Start at Luza Square, at the east end of the Stradum. Admire Orlando’s Column and the Bell Tower, with its interesting clock features, before heading into Memorial Room of the Dubrovnik Defenders in the Sponza Palace.
The rest of the palace costs money to enter but this display, with its well-executed photographic war memorial, is free. Next head to Dominican Monastery Museum, with its peaceful cloister and century old pharmacy. From there, check out the Ethnographic Museum, also home of the 16th Century Dubrovnik granary.
Have lunch with a view by the water at the Old Port. After you’re done eating, browse the various boat tours offered at stands on the piers. The trip to the Elaphite Islands is well worth it, as is a trip to Mljet Island National Park. It is a good idea to book these trips at least 24 hours in advance. The boat tour prices usually include a drink (grappa is a local favorite) and a fish fry lunch.
After you’ve made your reservations spend the afternoon relaxing on the beach. For dinner consider taking the bus (stop at a T1 information station for a map) or a taxi to Lapad Bay and enjoy its pedestrian friendly, restaurant-intensive main street. Before you leave Dubrovnik be sure to walk around the Old Town walls, preferably at sunset, for amazing views of the town and the sea. It is an experience that is not to be missed!
Mostar
Accessible from Dubrovnik via a four-hour bus ride, Mostar, Bosnia is truly culturally enlightening. Bosnia retains more of a war-torn feel than Slovenia and Croatia, and gives a more accurate perception of how devastating this war was for the region. While it is safe to travel in Mostar, as a tourist you should stay aware of your surroundings (and personally, I chose not to wonder too far out of Old Town).
Book your accommodations ahead and stay at a reputable hotel. Kriva Cuprija was my choice and though a bit pricey it gets my recommendation for their central location and great view. Give the city at least two days to spend your days and nights in Mostar walking and seeing everything.
Starting your tour at the Old Bridge, or Stari Most, for which the city was named is a great place to begin. There is an excellent picture exhibit on the downtown side of the bridge that spans its obliteration during the war and it’s eventual rebuilding. Also on the downtown side of the bridge you will find Kujundziluk, or Coppersmiths St. This bazaar-inspired narrow lane is a taste of Budapest, with great Turkish-influenced jewelry and copperwares (Turkish coffee, prepared in a traditional copper pot is hugely popular here) and “evil eyes” used in the Turkish culture to keep bad spirits at bay.
You can wander slowly and keep an eye out for bargains on everything from chess sets to traditional belly dancing skirts. Follow Coppersmith St. to find your way to the Koski Mehmed mosque and the Karadjoz-bey mosque, both with minarets that provide a great view of town. After climbing all the minaret stairs, stop in one of the cafe’s lining the street for a sweet treat and a cup of Turkish coffee.
Then head to Bescivica house , built in 1635, for a glimpse at a traditional Turkish dwelling, with a great view of the Neretva River. When you start meandering back to the hotel, you will find the Turkish bathhouse, an authentic treat.
Dinner options including eating at the hotel (guests are offered a discount) or on Cobblestone St at one of the many Italian inspired restaurants.
On day two in this beautiful city, you can start the next day by taking a short walk down to the riverbank and taking in the view of the bridge from the water. You may be lucky enough to see Mostar Diving Club practice jumping into the river off the 21 meter high Stari Most, and if you like a bit of adventure you can jump yourself and receive your own Mostar Diving Club Certificate.
In the afternoon, check out the Tepa Market, with it’s assorted handcrafts and produce, before getting on a train back to come back full circle to Ljubljana.